[Part 4/4] Nice to Have Equipments
- The Dive Coconut
- Jul 4
- 7 min read
These aren’t essential when you’re just starting out, but they’re worthwhile upgrades once you begin diving regularly.
Line Cutter
A line cutter is a small piece of equipment that hopefully you’ll never need—but if you do, you’ll be glad you have one.
It’s primarily used if you become entangled in fishing lines, nets, or accidentally wrap yourself in your own Surface Marker Buoy (SMB) line while diving alone.
I recommend getting one with a ceramic blade. Although many manufacturers advertise their blades as stainless steel, I’ve found that they still develop rust over time—especially since it’s easy to forget to rinse such a small piece of equipment after a dive.
A ceramic blade eliminates that concern entirely.
There’s also no need to spend a premium on this. Affordable options from Taobao or AliExpress work perfectly well. Just make sure it comes with a clip or attachment point so you can secure it to your BCD for easy access.
Aliexpress S$1.32 per piece Taobao est RMB70 per piece
Dive Computer When you’re starting out, I’d recommend renting a dive computer from your dive shop instead of buying one immediately.
As a beginner, all you really need is a computer that clearly displays your depth, dive time, and no-decompression limit (NDL). Almost every recreational dive computer does this well.
If you decide to buy one, keep in mind that every model has its own interface and learning curve. The good news is that once you’re familiar with your computer, operating it quickly becomes second nature.
More advanced dive computers can pair with a wireless tank transmitter, allowing your remaining air supply to be displayed directly on your wrist.
It’s a nice feature, but I don’t consider it essential.
Personally, I still prefer checking my Submersible Pressure Gauge (SPG). Even if you use a wireless transmitter, your SPG remains an important backup. I generally prefer keeping my equipment simple and streamlined, so I’ve never felt the need to add the transmitter.
Recommendations
Technical diving
Shearwater Perdix
Garmin Descent series
Recreational diving
Almost any reputable recreational dive computer will do the job.
There are already countless in-depth reviews on YouTube, so I won’t cover individual models here.
My Advice
If you’re spending good money on a premium dive computer, consider buying one that also functions as a smartwatch or fitness tracker. Getting daily use out of it makes the investment much easier to justify.
A Word of Caution: Apple Watch Ultra
When the Apple Watch Ultra and the Oceanic+ app were first released, I bought one almost immediately. On paper, it seemed like the perfect all-in-one solution.
For recreational diving, it worked well most of the time. The subscription model was flexible, and integrating diving into a smartwatch made a lot of sense.
Unfortunately, during one dive the app crashed underwater.
I had to troubleshoot the watch while underwater before I could complete my safety stop. Everything turned out fine, but that experience was enough for me to stop using it as my primary dive computer.
For me, the convenience simply wasn’t worth the added risk.
Garmin GPS or Nautilus Lifeline (PLB) The chances of becoming separated from your dive boat are low, but if it does happen, a personal locator device can become one of the most valuable pieces of equipment you own.
Just be aware that the Nautilus Lifeline relies on nearby vessels carrying an AIS receiver.
In my experience diving around Southeast Asia, many smaller dive boats—particularly in less developed areas—don’t carry AIS equipment. That limits its effectiveness in certain destinations.
Whichever device you choose, remember to buy a suitable waterproof housing and keep track of its battery replacement and servicing schedule.
Wetsuit
For most recreational divers, I’d recommend renting wetsuits instead of buying one immediately.
Rental wetsuits save luggage space, eliminate the hassle of maintenance, and avoid the inconvenience of packing a wet wetsuit before your flight home.
Performance differences between old and new rental wetsuits are generally minor. Any small changes in buoyancy can easily be compensated for by adjusting the air in your BCD.
If You Want to Buy One
Choose the thickness based on the water temperatures you’ll be diving in.
1.5 mm – Warm tropical waters
3 mm – Standard choice throughout Southeast Asia
5 mm – Cooler waters
7 mm and above – Cold-water diving
Budget-friendly Chinese brands are perfectly usable if you’re looking to save money.
However, there are two things to keep in mind:
Their sizing often runs smaller than international brands, so check the size chart carefully or consider ordering one size larger.
In my experience, their thermal insulation isn’t quite as effective as premium brands.
My Advice
If your budget allows, buy a two-piece wetsuit consisting of a front-zip jacket and long pants.
Although it’s more expensive than a traditional one-piece wetsuit, it’s significantly more practical.
After enough dive trips, you’ll realise that putting on and taking off a one-piece wetsuit several times a day quickly becomes tiresome.
With a two-piece wetsuit, you can simply remove the jacket during surface intervals while leaving the pants on. It’s significantly more comfortable, especially on liveaboards or dive holidays where you’ll be diving multiple times a day.
I’ve seen many divers start with a one-piece wetsuit, only to buy a two-piece later after growing tired of repeatedly putting on and taking off the entire suit between dives.
In many cases, the higher upfront cost of a two-piece ends up being cheaper than buying a one-piece first and replacing it later. Also, do look at carousell app SG for second hand deals. There are always wetsuits listings available as people quit the hobby and most of the time, the wetsuits are already adjusted and broken into, no need to use extra weights for the buoyancy anymore.
Regulators & Hoses
Despite my frequent complaints about poorly maintained rental regulators at some dive shops, I still consider owning your own regulator a luxury rather than a necessity.
The reason is straightforward.
Regulators are among the most expensive pieces of scuba equipment you’ll buy. They require regular servicing and add noticeable weight when traveling.
Fortunately, almost every dive shop rents regulators, and for most recreational dives—especially shallower than 30 metres—the breathing difference between a standard rental regulator and a premium model isn’t significant enough to justify rushing into a purchase.
If you have the budget, however, a regulator with adjustable breathing resistance is a nice upgrade. It allows you to fine-tune airflow and make breathing feel more effortless.
That said, I don’t think beginners benefit much from this feature. During your early dives, you’ll already be concentrating on buoyancy, trim, navigation, communication, and countless other skills. Chances are you’ll forget the adjustment knob even exists.
If You’re Sensitive to Breathing Resistance
If effortless breathing is important to you and budget isn’t a concern, I’d recommend Atomic Aquatics regulators. atomics brand
They’re roughly 30–40% more expensive than many competitors, but the breathing performance is genuinely impressive.
The automatic airflow adjustment performs exceptionally well at depth, and the first time I used one, I immediately noticed the difference.
Another feature I particularly like is the swivel ball joint on the second stage. It allows the regulator hose to move naturally with your head instead of constantly pulling against it. Planning to Dive Sidemount or Tech?
If you think you’ll eventually move into sidemount diving, buy regulators with a rotating first-stage turret from the start. rotating turret
Sidemount requires two first stages and the rotating turret makes hose routing significantly cleaner.
Yes, these regulators cost more, but buying the right equipment once is much cheaper than replacing both regulators later.
I’ve met plenty of divers who ended up purchasing an entirely new regulator set simply because their original first stages weren’t suitable for sidemount. DIN or Yoke?
Choose DIN.
If necessary, it’s easy to attach a yoke adapter.
However, if you eventually move into technical or sidemount diving, DIN becomes the standard anyway.
Before every overseas trip, check with your dive operator whether their cylinders use DIN or yoke valves and pack an adapter if required.
Just remember that a solid metal yoke adapter weighs close to 1 kg, so there’s little point carrying one unless you know you’ll need it. Long Hose or Standard Setup?
long hose method There’s no right or wrong configuration.
A standard recreational setup works perfectly well for most divers.
However, if you plan to progress into technical diving or sidemount, I’d recommend learning the long-hose configuration early. It’s the standard setup used in those disciplines, and becoming comfortable with it now makes future training much easier. Miflex or Rubber Hoses? Braided Miflex hoses have become increasingly popular because they’re lighter and available in many different colours.
For recreational diving, they’re perfectly fine.
Personally, though, I still prefer traditional rubber hoses.
Because Miflex hoses are so light, they tend to float around underwater more than rubber hoses. I’ve also found that their braided outer surface can rub against the back of your neck during long dives, causing mild skin irritation.
Rubber hoses are slightly heavier, but I find they stay in place better and are generally more comfortable during extended use.
That wraps up my recommendations for scuba gear.
One mistake I see many new divers make is feeling pressured to buy everything immediately. The reality is that you don’t need a full set of gear to enjoy diving. Rent what you can, dive more often, and let your own experiences shape your purchases.
As you gain experience, you’ll naturally discover what matters to you and what doesn’t.
Scuba diving is a hobby where experience is worth far more than equipment. Every dive will teach you something new, and over time you’ll develop your own preferences for gear, configurations, and brands. Treat my recommendations as a starting point rather than a checklist.
Buy slowly, buy once and spend your money on the equipment that genuinely improves your diving—not the gear that simply looks impressive.